Within the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 present on YouTube. As one among 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of many first reveals that will probably be mentioned massive. Coming from a really critically profitable few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a whole lot of good feeling from the press.
I liked this debut. It felt stripped again to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure color palette that nodded to Raf-era. Inside that I notably favored the chilly eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes within the skirts and cut-out again particulars, surprising pops of silver, some nice baggage and the flat sneakers.
It felt like a reset, palate-cleansing the proportions from Lucie and Luke’s XXL to one thing extra elegantly wearable. Perhaps subsequent season there will probably be extra Simone within the combine, however the response within the room was enthusiastic (I like a cheer at a style present). Early responses from patrons are promising – Dover Road Market known as it “unbelievable”, whereas Carla Sozzani praised the craftsmanship and “stunning work”. It is going to be fascinating to listen to what the remainder must say.
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Jil Sander SS26
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